Prague - Paris' ambitious understudy - has shrugged off her Eastern-bloc blahs and joined the party.

Where The Czech Republic's capital city sits on the Vlatava River in the heart of Central Europe's Bohemian plateau. Following 41 years of Communist rule and a peaceful switch to democracy in 1989, the Czech Republic joined the European Union in May of this year.

Your guide Prague-born Ana Geislerova, 28, is one of the Czech Republic's most respected young actresses. Recent film roles include the female lead in the Oscar-nominated Zelary (2003), Little Scars (2004) and Shut up and Shoot Me (2004), which is currently in post-production.

The vibe Prague is a city in transitation where old-school intelligentsia meets New Age capitalism. Stroll through cobbled streets in the medieval centre of Prague as jazz melodies and Dvorak symphonies wash over you. Gourmet restaurants, trendy bars and chi-chi boutiques are obvious signs of change, but take a turn down a side street and you'll find simple restaurants that serve local Pilsner and traditional meals of pork and dumplings.

Big picture Get lost in the tangled walkways around eavesdrop on a heated conversation between local intellectuals. Treat yourself to exquisite white-glove service along Parizska, indulging in ice cream salvation at Cremeria Milano. Feel the rhythm in jazz basement haven U Maleho Glena and relive your youth at the National Marionette Theatre, where expert puppeteers conduct Mozart's Don Giovanni. Browse through boutiques selling art glass, crystal and ornately decorated porcelain ("It's Czech gold", says Geislerova) and prepare to linger at Vily or at Czech garnet bauble or amber trinket. For a step back in time, cross the Charles Bridge and walk up to Prague Castle, revelling in the Gothic and baroque architecture on the way. Take some time to visit Prague's former Jewish ghetto, Josefov. It contains Europe's oldest surviving Jewish burial ground. (One gravestone dates back to 1439.)

Local style Prague's fashionists are a free-spirited bunch, combining second-hand finds from Morska Nemoc, designer seconds from Black Market and Czech labels from Myrnyx Tyrnyx and Faux Pas. When it comes to dressing up, think all-out eccentric Bohemian chic. "Boheme makes wonderful velvet suede jackets" says Geislerova. "But when you want to make the fashion scene, Klara Nademlynska is where it's at. It's sexy and very feminine." The Czechs love clubbing, and a trip to Devata vlna, chock full of clubbing couture, guarantees a memorable, head-turning entrance at the hippest of hot spots. And Dessous-Dessus, with its classical and sensual lingerie collection, is the perfect prob for your love connection

Why you should go Prague - stepped in history, architecture, art and music - is part cultural mecca and part romantic destination. "Prague is romance. Everywhere you turn, you melt," gushes Geislerova.

What to pack Comfy-chic shoes (think Y-3 or Camper) for hours of exploration on foot. And take a copy of Milan Kundera's The Unbearable Lightness of Being. It's a handy cover for soaking up the scene at your favourite cafe. When the sun sets, trade your Campers in for something sexier - you'll need them for close encounters at La Bodeguita des Medio, Prague's salsa solution.

ANA'S BEST LIST ...

Hotels The utterly contemporary glass-fronted Hotel Josef, designed by Czech native Eva Jiricna, tops Geislerova's best hotel list. "I just love the design," she says. "It's very modern, very minimalist." Aria, the elegant, music-themed hotel designed by Versace's architect, Rocco Magnoli, has soundproofed rooms named after famous composers and musical genres. (Choose between the Brahms and the Bossa Nova rooms.) The building is a star in its own right: it was featured in Amadeus (1984) and Mission: Impossible (1996).

Cuisine Located on the 7th floor of Canadian architect Frank Gehry's Dancing Building - Prague's modernist landmark - La Perle de Prague dishes up five-star French cuisine. Sample home-smoked halibut, kefir dumplings and caviar pearls, followed by a succulent sea-bass fillet with mushroom chutney and truffle cream. "Enjoy your meal and store your energy ... you'll need it for late-night drinks at Hapu," advises Geislerova. This quirky little cocktail bar serves electic drinks in '60s velvet couch 'n' curtain livingroom setting.

Escape "I love the river and the Prague gardens," says Geislerova. But when she wants a quiet, intimate retreat for two, she takes refuge in her favourite art deco cafe, Cafe Slavia. "It's classical, with a rich history of writers, painters and artists."

Spas Follow in the footsteps of such historical visitors as Casanova, Beethoven and Sigmund Freud and pamper your inner goddess at the spa town of Karlovy Vary (also known by its German name, Karlsbad). Located just 130 kilometres west of Prague, the town has elegant baroque and art noveau buildings, and its healing waters will soothe even the most frazzled diva's nerves. "With the hot, healing water and beautiful architecture, it looks more like a fairy tale than a spa retreat," says Geislerova. Some clinics' treatments may need to be prescribed by a doctor, but mineral baths, massages and steam treatments are available in the larger hotels.